Notes to Rachel

A Tail of Two Shrimps, Part Deux: Etouffee

By now, you've amassed a pile of shrimp heads and shells. Most reasonable people would look at that and think, "Bait." A Cajun thinks, "Lunch." 

Etouffee means "smothered" in French. It's usually made with shrimp, crawfish tails, chicken or sausage. It's generally thicker than a soup, with a thick, gravy like texture. And it is really, really good.

A fine shrimp stock, along with a well-made roux, is the secret to a really good etouffee. It's also great for layering extra flavor in a gumbo. Making it is very simple: Put whatever quantity of shells and heads into a saucepan with a chopped onion, two stalks of chopped celery, a chopped carrot, a few cloves of garlic, a few peppercorns and a bay leaf. Cover with water, and simmer for a half hour to forty five minutes. If you're using it right away, strain it right into the etouffee. If not, reduce by 3/4, and freeze in an ice cube tray for later use. Note: if you have time, you can roast the shells and heads in a dry frying pan or in the oven for a deeper flavor before adding the liquid.

The Holy Trinity of Louisiana Cooking: Onion, Celery and Bell Pepper

For the Etoufee:

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup canola or peanut oil

1 large onion, medium dice

3 stalks celery, ditto

1 large green bell pepper, ditto

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 cup diced tomato

3 tbs Cajun Seasoning (I like Tony Chachere's or Zatarain's, but you can make your own with equal proportions garlic powder, onion powder, thyme, oregano, black pepper, and cayenne)

1 tbs salt

2-3 lbs large shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 quart shrimp stock, hot

2 bay leaves

finely chopped scallion for garnish

Steamed white rice

In a enameled dutch oven over medium heat, combine the oil and flour and whisk constantly until it turns the color of peanut butter. You want a fairly light roux here--it has more thickening power than a dark one and has the right flavor profile for this dish.

Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic, and sweat over medium-low heat for ten minutes or until just soft. Turn heat up to high. Add tomato, seasoning salt, bay leaves and stock, bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring, until mixture thickens and reduces a bit, maybe another 30 minutes. You're looking for a thick, gravy consistency. Taste and adjust seasonings ( I often add more Cajun seasoning here--it's better to start with too little than too much.)

Add shrimp and cover, removing from heat. Let sit on the stove for 10-12 minutes. Shrimp should be just cooked through.

Serve over white rice, and garnish with chopped scallions. Pass Tabasco at table.

Borrowed this photo--we ate ours before I could take pictures!